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About six years ago, Papayannis Chriss felt like he had studied and traveled and learning enough about Italian food to run his first restaurant. Thanks to a string of luck, all the massive obstacles, such as securing an adequate space and start up capital, among others that usually face restaurant operators had been taken care of.

Here’s how it happened. An acquaintance, Wiener World owner Tom Rontiris had tried to open a second restaurant but for various reasons, it failed. Rontiris turned to Papayannis and his idea for an Italian style restaurant offering medium priced entrees and appetizers. Rontiris would own the place and Papayannis would run it and cook the food.

So, right off the bat, Papayannis had the restaurant, the building and some equipment. But just before jumping in, he worried about his credibility as a Greek man running and cooking for an Italian restaurant. Would patrons buy it as authentic, regardless of how good the food was? This lasted for about a split second. Papayannis knew he could do it, regardless of his background. He lived in Italy for months. Visited there several times. Worked as an apprentice to a skilled chef. Of course he could do it. After all, all those other Greek restaurant owners in York � what were they serving? “They are cooking Pennsylvania Dutch”, said Papayannis. “But no one questions that. It’s like, wait a minute.”

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Papayannis also went into al Dente, as the restaurant would be called, because Greek and Italian cooking actually shares many similarities. Both cultures are in the Mediterranean. They use the same ingredients; artichoke hearts, olive oil, olives, the same family of cheeses, all are found in Italian and Greek kitchens. “We are in the Mediterranean”, he said. “So, change the names. We make it a little bit spicier than they do”. Rontiris, who named Papayannis a partener in the early days of al Dente, said he had no doubt that Papayannis could make an Italian menu work. He said that people of Greek descent run tons of Italian places in New York.

Papayannis’ parents and grandparents came to America from Greece, which means they brought many traditions with them. One was eating at home, and a heavy emphasis on home cooking. As a kid, Papayannis would watch his mother and grandmother very closely. He had help out. Before long, he was in love with the kitchen. As he got older, Papayannis moved on to other genres of cooking He worked in some American style places and caught on to that style. “I always loved to learn new things,” he said the ultimate opportunity came when one of his best friends invited him to come along on a trip to Italy.” I was going to go for three weeks and ended up staying for three months,” Papayannis said. “So it was one of those trips.”

Papayannis wants people to feel at home when they visit Al Dente, which is named after an Italian phrase used to describe pasta or other food that is cooked slightly and is not soft or overdone. About a year ago, Rontiris sold his stake in Al Dente to Papayannis and focused his attention on the other place that he owns. But Rontiris is still a regular at Al Dent, and the two remain close friends.

“It’s good quality,” Papayannis said. “Greeks believe in good quality of food. It’s completely different than the chains.” When constructing the reasonably priced menu on which you can order spaghetti, meatballs and a salad for under $7, Papayannis kept in mind the old neighborhood style restaurants he used to visit in Greece. “You would sit on a metal folding chair, you’d have butcher paper for a table cloth, and it was cheap,” he said. “But the food was fabulous. Everybody knew who you were, you wouldn’t go there on your anniversary or a birthday, but for everyday was great. And that’s what I wanted to do here.

Al Dente’s menu features the classic Italian stuff; lasagna, baked penne, classic ravioli, manicotti and fettuccini alfredo. But it also features some Papayannis specialties and experiments. Chicken Soprano, which is chicken and crab, is one of the most popular dishes. As is the baked crab capillini, which can be ordered as an appetizer or a meal. He is also a big fan of Portobello mushrooms. “I can promise you that anything I cook with Portobello mushrooms is pretty good,” he said.

Papayannis is now the executive chef of the restaurant, which means he trains his chefs and no longer does most of the cooking. But he still loves to cook, and he is there in the morning. What he loves most is greeting his customers at the front door, late in the afternoon, after everything has been prepared and ordered and set up for an evening of dinner. He knows they will be seated and served a tasty Italian meal at an affordable price. Once satiated by the savory spread, they won’t care who it was cooked the meal or who developed the recipe. “No matter what you say, people will know what you do. You can say anything you want, you can tell people whatever you want. If you can’t deliver, it’s not going to make any difference.” Criss Papayannis owner of al Dente, may be Greek, but he is an Italian chef.

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